Middle of Nowhere
Compared to Madagascar, our accommodation in Namibia has been very civilised. Not a bucket shower in sight (yet). The lodges we have stayed in have all been in the Middle of Nowhere. And I really mean Nowhere. As in, it's a minimum four hour drive to the nearest "town" (for the meaning of which, see previous post). We have stayed in a lodge made of hay bales (good for insulation apparently, which is odd given that it is 40 degrees outside) and an absolutely awesome lodge cut into the mountain with incredible views across the Namib Desert and a twenty minute drive to breakfast. We also stayed in a "kulala" made of clay and canvas where you can sleep on the roof and stargaze. Mike got a bit slapdash the first night and forgot the mozzie repellant so woke up with fifteen enormous bites on his already prominent (but beautiful) forehead.
We have been on lots of game drives from the lodges and seen plenty of fascinating animals including oryx (is the plural oryxi? It should be), springbok, kudu, gnu and ostrichi. Mike has eaten all of those in biltong. The sunrises and sunsets over the Kalahari and Namib deserts have all been very dramatic, even without pollution. On Tuesday, we watched the sun come up from a hot air balloon over the desert, which was a wonderful experience. It felt like a magic carpet; there is no turbulence as the balloon just floats with the wind. I did enjoy it although, as we got higher, I did start to wonder whether the bottom could fall out of the giant picnic basket and whether the balloon ever bursts. Will have to ask Mr Branson. We landed and were served a champagne breakfast in the Middle of Nowhere. I could get used to this.
Come to think of it, we have spent most of this week up high as we climbed up Big Daddy, the highest sand dune in Africa, which is not as easy as you first may think. One step forward, two steps back as you sink into the soft sand. Or that's what it felt like. We then took a light aircraft up over the huge expanse of sand dunes which reach all the way to the coast so you also see a shipwreck and seal colonies. Very pleasant although it was vaguely disconcerting that the pilot looked about six and could barely see over the dashboard (?) out of the window.
Anyway, the best thing so far about Africa, I think (apart from lemurs), is that the lodge staff have a wonderful tendency to burst into song and dance. It is very moving and very interesting to learn the different songs of each region/country. One song was even in clicks and tuts. But I can't believe the staff are all so talented and tuneful. Can you imagine your waiter suddenly bursting into song at a Hilton?
Compared to Madagascar, our accommodation in Namibia has been very civilised. Not a bucket shower in sight (yet). The lodges we have stayed in have all been in the Middle of Nowhere. And I really mean Nowhere. As in, it's a minimum four hour drive to the nearest "town" (for the meaning of which, see previous post). We have stayed in a lodge made of hay bales (good for insulation apparently, which is odd given that it is 40 degrees outside) and an absolutely awesome lodge cut into the mountain with incredible views across the Namib Desert and a twenty minute drive to breakfast. We also stayed in a "kulala" made of clay and canvas where you can sleep on the roof and stargaze. Mike got a bit slapdash the first night and forgot the mozzie repellant so woke up with fifteen enormous bites on his already prominent (but beautiful) forehead.
We have been on lots of game drives from the lodges and seen plenty of fascinating animals including oryx (is the plural oryxi? It should be), springbok, kudu, gnu and ostrichi. Mike has eaten all of those in biltong. The sunrises and sunsets over the Kalahari and Namib deserts have all been very dramatic, even without pollution. On Tuesday, we watched the sun come up from a hot air balloon over the desert, which was a wonderful experience. It felt like a magic carpet; there is no turbulence as the balloon just floats with the wind. I did enjoy it although, as we got higher, I did start to wonder whether the bottom could fall out of the giant picnic basket and whether the balloon ever bursts. Will have to ask Mr Branson. We landed and were served a champagne breakfast in the Middle of Nowhere. I could get used to this.
Come to think of it, we have spent most of this week up high as we climbed up Big Daddy, the highest sand dune in Africa, which is not as easy as you first may think. One step forward, two steps back as you sink into the soft sand. Or that's what it felt like. We then took a light aircraft up over the huge expanse of sand dunes which reach all the way to the coast so you also see a shipwreck and seal colonies. Very pleasant although it was vaguely disconcerting that the pilot looked about six and could barely see over the dashboard (?) out of the window.
Anyway, the best thing so far about Africa, I think (apart from lemurs), is that the lodge staff have a wonderful tendency to burst into song and dance. It is very moving and very interesting to learn the different songs of each region/country. One song was even in clicks and tuts. But I can't believe the staff are all so talented and tuneful. Can you imagine your waiter suddenly bursting into song at a Hilton?
posted by Laura Smith at 7:27 AM
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